Christopher John Rogers Is Ready to Conjure Up a New Kind of Fashion Fantasy

Back in January, with a new studio in SoHo, it seemed that 2020 was Christopher John Roger’s year for the taking. After juggling his namesake brand alongside his day job as a knitwear designer and colorist for Diane von Furstenberg, everything changed overnight when he received the grand prize from the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in November of last year. With the $400,000 prize money came the ability for him and his small coterie of collaborators to commit to the label full-time, as well as lease said studio space. Then, of course, came the coronavirus.

“We were super excited to move into this space, but we’ve also been working out of our apartment for the past two and a half years, so we were actually quite used to working from home,” says Rogers, who has now moved back into the studio. “Plus, we are such a small company, and we had already fully shipped our spring collection, so we didn’t really feel the rush to create this whole entire new collection as we only do two seasons. We just decompressed and tried to relax and make things that come naturally to us.”

While 2020 may have had other plans for Rogers, it’s clear when speaking to him that the lockdown period has brought a renewed sense of purpose. The label’s signature aesthetic, established with impressive clarity right from the get-go, is one of kaleidoscopic opulence; voluminous gowns crafted from yards of taffeta, acid-colored florals and plaids, eveningwear that would wipe the floor at both a Cannes red carpet and a Harlem ballroom. Less remarked upon, perhaps, is Rogers’s keen instinct for translating his decadent vision into more wearable pieces, whether separates that can be worn with jeans, or his impeccably-cut tailoring.

“With our first two runway shows, we definitely leaned into the expectations people had of the brand,” says Rogers. “And I think that during lockdown, we’ve been reassessing everything, where we were going, and we kind of wanted to go back to square one which was about creating really specific clothes for specific people to do whatever they wish with them. Prior to us doing runway shows, there were definitely pieces that were more day oriented or were a bit more casual, but those weren’t necessarily the things that editors or buyers were picking out from us, but I think that now there’s going to be a renewed interest and, you know, pieces that aren’t just cocktail dresses or for a special event.”

The product of this will be reflected in his spring 2021 offering (the team are now back in the studio and working on the collection by hand), but its roots lie just as much in the broader access Rogers has been afforded as his label has grown as it does in the restrictions imposed by COVID-19. “We have access to mills in Italy and Asia now that have really, really gorgeous fabrics, but also come at a less expensive price point,” Rogers adds. “So we can still do really amazing volumes, but they don’t necessarily have to be rendered in silk. We can find really beautiful sustainable substitutes for those that have a more friendly and accessible price point. I’m from the south, so cottons and linens are fabrics I really love, and they’re super easy to wear, so we’re kind of leaning in that direction as well for spring, too.”

That isn’t to say, however, that he has any intention of moving away from his more flamboyant designs altogether. “It’s really just about going with our gut instinct,” Rogers adds. “There’s always been a really simple cotton shirt and cotton skirt that we’ve offered in the collection, it just wasn’t necessarily the thing that the buyers want from us for their customer. So it’s really been about hammering home both sides of the brand and marrying them together to form a more developed product offering. Now that we actually have the time to really consider what we’re doing instead of just rushing to create something, we’ve really been able to create an even more fully contextualized vision.”

Whatever form this new vision may end up taking, the one thing Rogers is certain about is that it will mark a new, more ambitious, chapter for his rapidly growing brand. “People desire extravagance and flamboyancy, but then there is my personal need to express something that feels a bit more pragmatic,” Rogers concludes. “It’s more interesting to be having to reconcile both of those things.”

Five Global Retailers Share What’s Selling Online, From Sweatpants to Wedding Dresses

Fashion, like so many industries amid this pandemic, is on the brink of change. Brands are rethinking their missions: reimagining runway shows, pledging to be more sustainable, and working to realign their deliveries to better suit sales periods. Of course, none of their grand plans will come together without customer support. All the beautiful goods in the world don’t mean a thing without someone to buy and love them.

It might seem like we’re all doomed, because who’s buying designer handbags when we’re stuck indoors? But there is some good news: Luxury e-commerce sites are reporting a shift in the culture of consumption. Yes, cozy house clothes are selling like wildfire—as are candles, pillows, and other niceties for the home—but enthusiasm is also increasing for fashion that is exuberant, special, and thoughtfully made.

Will we emerge from our chrysalises as bedazzled butterflies or cashmere caterpillars? Vogue Runway polled five luxury e-tailers to get a sense of what fashion looks like now.

Home Life Rules

Searches for sweatpants have spiked 85% since March 9 on Moda Operandi, according to the e-tailer’s extensive sales report. Cashmere sweat sets from Madeleine Thompson have ranked among Moda’s best sellers since March 9, with almost 75% of buyers purchasing the complete set, priced at $450 for the sweater and $450 for the pants. The interest in luxury house clothes isn’t surprising when you consider that many of us are very inside right now—and it isn’t strictly a Moda trend.

“Our track pants alone have grown over 130% in the last couple of months, and it’s not necessarily surprising, but of course we weren’t anticipating it,” says Net-a-Porter’s global buying director Elizabeth von der Goltz. “We’ve seen that the customers are gravitating toward activewear, loungewear, beauty, and wellness products during this time.”

“Like most people, Ssense customers are understandably gravitating toward the comfort of loungewear, but our aesthetic is much more elevated-casual, not sloppy,” says Brigitte Chartrand, the vice president of womenswear buying for Ssense. “Activewear, lingerie, and swimwear are all selling well right now.”

Ssense’s vice president of menswear buying, Federico Barassi, echoes this: “As more people are working from home, comfortable attire has been top of mind for our customers. Loungewear and footwear are our best-selling categories right now. T-shirts, joggers, sneakers, and slides are outperforming all other categories at the moment, and we’ve also seen an increase in eyewear purchases.”

To meet customer interest, the Canadian retailer has introduced a number of exclusive collections tailor-made for this stay-at-home moment. “Shoppers come to Ssense for a refined offering of luxury and elevated loungewear, so going into this season many of our exclusive womenswear capsule collections were catering to this demand,” Chartrand notes, citing an exclusive Jacquemus capsule collection as a particularly well-timed collaboration. A terry cloth Gil Rodriguez capsule is likewise doing well, as are buzzy items with a lounge-y feel, like Ssense’s exclusive Off-White Nike sneakers. “Overall, brands that are offering elevated loungewear, like Sporty & Rich, are on fire.”

Celenie Seidel, a senior editor at Farfetch, reports that “there has absolutely been more of an appetite for loungewear and activewear, speaking to the obvious collective shift in lifestyle.” But that lifestyle shift doesn’t stop at socks and slippers. “Our homewares category has been receiving a lot of love—never have homes known so many candles,” Seidel continues. “People seem to be transferring the self-expression they once realized through clothes to the way they’re dressing their surrounding environment.” Moda Operandi also reported an uptick in homeware buys, with sales for home goods up 80% from this time last year.

Investment Pieces Are Still Worth Investing In

MatchesFashion.com’s fashion buying director Natalie Kingham says sales of “cult collector” investment items are up too. That includes “considered purchases which will last through the seasons ahead, from handbags by Loewe and Saint Laurent to fine jewelry and watches from Shay, Lizzie Mandler, Jacquie Aiche, and La Californienne.”

The move toward pieces of lasting value was echoed from all retailers. “We’re seeing high sales in fine jewelry, specifically in higher-price-point watches,” says Net-a-Porter’s von der Goltz. “People are wanting emotional buys that are good investment pieces.”

According to Moda Operandi’s retail report, “Half of the women surveyed said when investing in wardrobe pieces, they’re looking for a quality fashion piece that will last.” Lisa Aiken, the retailer’s fashion and buying director, tells Vogue, “There are Moda customer habits that have not shifted. She is still making emotional and cult-favorite purchases—our woman loves a fashion piece. And before lockdown, our clients were interested in dressing for their reality. They wanted the perfect button-down, a luxe everyday knit, a sharp blazer, and tailored trousers from brands like The Row, Khaite, and Bottega Veneta. This desire for reality dressing has remained constant throughout lockdown.”

Aiken says she’s been surprised that luxury handbags—arguably impractical items for women with nowhere to go—are still selling well. “I have been very intrigued by the uptick of designer handbag purchases. Our top-selling handbags are Loewe, Prada, and Bottega Veneta. We already sold out, in presale, the new Bottega Veneta pouch with a gold chain. That bag costs $3,600. I am so happy our client is buying these fashion pieces, but I do wonder, Where is she wearing it?”

Net-a-Porter also reported an increase in handbag sales: “We’ve also seen growth in the bag category—specifically bags that our shopper wears during the day,” reports von der Goltz—while Farfetch and Moda Operandi both reported increased interest in vintage pieces. “Sadly, so many people have been financially impacted by lockdown,” Farfetch’s Seidel says. “[But] among those who are in a better position, we are seeing strong sales in things like fine jewelry, which indicates a gravitation toward investing in more timeless items rather than trend-driven, seasonal items.”

The Future Is Bright—Literally

Among the most popular items at Moda Operandi for the summer and fall are a glitter bathing suit by Oseree and crystal-trimmed pumps by the Tbilisi-based brand Mach & Mach. Both are about as sparkly as a garment or accessory could be—proving that luxury shoppers are definitely embracing a happy, carefree sense of style.

MatchesFashion.com’s Kingham categorizes this kind of shopping as “hopeful” purchases. “Work-from-home looks and hopeful purchases have been on the increase, as well as dresses from designers such as The Vampire’s Wife, Vita Kin, Gabriela Hearst, Toogood, and Lisa Marie Fernandez as the weather improves.” In perhaps the most hopeful move of all, shoppers are also gravitating toward occasionwear. “Our wedding edit is up by 25%,” says MatchesFashion.com’s Kingham. “I’ve also heard from our private shopping team that our customers are wanting ‘uplifting pieces’—it’s lovely to know that fashion can help lift the spirits.” The message: Shoppers are saying “I do” to a better future.

Most Importantly, Shopping Is About More Than Just Buying Things

Many of the retailers spoke about the importance of building an emotional connection and community with their clients. “We have heard that our clients are not always looking to shop, but are seeking an escape from their day-to-day. They have a thirst for content and storytelling. Whether it is a recipe exchange, a Zoom event, or reminding her why she loves fashion with our beautiful editorials, we are engaging her on an intimate level,” Moda’s Aiken says.

At Moda, shoppers are more willing to spend full price on a luxury item when it has an emotional resonance. The report explains: “We found that one-of-a-kind heritage pieces are among the most sought-after from the Fall / Winter season, with consumers attracted to the hand craftsmanship of upholstery, tapestries, knits, tartans, and fringing.”

Farfetch’s Seidel also reported a shift in customer interest to the craft and care of fashion. “What’s most encouraging to me is the noticeably increased interest in both sustainable brands and pre-owned pieces. There was already a growing consciousness around buying more mindfully, and I think the globally shared experience we’re all living right now—and the associated conversations around how we live and how we can do better—has acted as a bit of an accelerant in a shopping context,” she says. Here, the biggest message for designers, retailers, and customers is that buying is an intentional act and it has to stand for something.

Travis Scott Just Did a Virtual Concert Inside of a Video Game

With people around the world sheltering in place, musicians have had to get creative to still connect with audiences they would’ve performed for at concerts, raves, or festivals. Some are taking things into their own hands. Erykah Badu recently launched her own livestreaming platform where she’s been streaming extended jam sessions with her band and others, such as Arca, have been digging into already existing platforms like Twitch.

Last night, though, Travis Scott took the concept of virtual concerts into a totally new realm: the artist hosted a virtual concert and debuted “The Scotts,” a new song that he made with Kid Cudi in the online game Fortnite. While “Sicko Mode” played over gamers’ headsets, eventually a digitized, larger-than-life rendering of Scott exploded onto the screen. The video game version of Scott appeared shirtless and he wore a pair of post-apocalyptic combat boots with a pair of cargo pants, accessorized with chains dangling around his neck.

It’s the first of a series of events that Scott is doing within the Fortnite universe, but it’s already got a strong following: there were 12.3 million players that partook in the virtual experience. There’s three more encore concerts tomorrow scheduled for 12 AM EDT, 11 AM EDT, and 6 PM EDT. It’s innovative in the sense that it’s creating an immersive, concert-like experience within an ever-evolving game space, but Scott’s wardrobe is surprisingly conventional in it. In Fortnite, you can dress your character in outlandish gear that approximates everything from a Catwoman suit to a buccaneer, but Scott didn’t opt for fairy wings or a utility vest. He could have worn absolutely anything to his virtual concert, but Scott kept his wardrobe true-to-life.

Pastrami Rock? Haim Kick off Their ‘Deli Tour’ at Sarge’s in New York

Sarge’s Delicatessen has served up hot brisket over potato pancakes, “New York’s Best” corned beef hash, and Hungarian beef goulash in the Murray Hill neighborhood of New York City for the past 55 years. In a city where there are few original Jewish delis still in business, Sarge’s is likely the only one from that older generation that’s open 24/7. While people in the neighborhood might know it as the go-to spot for a pastrami sandwich at 4 in the morning, the pop rock band Haim turned it into an unlikely concert venue on Tuesday night, performing live to promote their upcoming album, Women in Music Pt III, which comes out next month.

Sarge’s is the first stop on the Haim sisters’s so-called Deli Tour, where they’ll play small-scale shows at delicatessens in Washington, D.C., Chicago, Los Angeles and other cities. It’s an idea sparked from the band’s early days—they played their very first show at Canter's Deli in Los Angeles in 2000. The sisters seem to be fully embracing all that these classic restaurants have to offer: They posed post-performance decked out in Sarge’s T-shirts and caps. You already know that the sisters can put on a good show, but now they look like they could make a mean corned beef sandwich, too.

Bella Hadid Proves the Skinny Jean Isn’t Dead Yet

While the spotlight at the shows in Paris has been on menswear this past week, for Bella Hadid, it’s been just as busy as any womenswear season. The model walked the runway for Alyx, Jacquemus, Lanvin, and Berluti, while also using her downtime to sit front row and support some of her designer BFFs, including Kim Jones at Dior Men and Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton. In-between, there have been plenty of notable street style moments, too. Just take her latest look, which quietly heralds the return of the denim trend that dominated the ’00s and is now creeping back into the spotlight: the skinny jean.

Hadid’s take on the classic style, however, was far from what you’d expect. Stepping out from her hotel in the city’s 8th arrondissement, the model wore a cozy, oversized shearling-lined coat over a plaid top in burnt orange. The latter piece was by Charlotte Knowles, Hadid’s latest go-to designer. She wore a full look from the rising London-based label to the MTV VMAs last year, and as recently as yesterday stepped out in a top and trousers set from their spring 2020 collection. (Sensibly slung over her back, too, was a matching hoodie—Hadid clearly knows to carry an extra layer in case of an unexpected drop in temperature.) To accessorize, she went for her signature ’90s-inspired mini sunglasses and gold hoops, along with a Jacquemus bag in sunflower yellow that brought a joyous touch of color perfect for any chilly winter day.

But it was the cut of her jeans that was the star of the show. The pavement-grazing silhouette extended all the way to the soles of her Wandler square-toe boots, while she pulled the zippers up to ankle-height to give them a gentle kick flare. With this simple and subtle styling trick, Hadid managed to make the familiar skinny jean looked totally fresh and new.